A band of tight flying blue-winged teal buzzed down the far shore of the small lake. The hunting buddy was signaled to get ready. The pair of Labrador retrievers trembled with excitement.

As predicted, the teal flew to the west end of the lake, turned, and headed up the north shore straight for the set of three dozen decoys.

A well-trained dog will hold a steady point in spite of gunfire.

When the shooting ended, four teal bobbed in the decoys belly up. The chocolate Lab, Peggy, was sent for the first retrieve. The hunting partner did the same with his dog. However, his young dog never responded to the command to retrieve. Instead, she hovered by his side, trembling.

Upon inquiring about the experience of his dog, he defensively stated that he believed training for a Lab should not start until it was a year old. The young dog’s training had started that morning. His dog proved to be mortified by the gunfire, i.e., gun shy.

Peggy retrieved all four teal and happily accepted the praise given. At command, she took her place in the boat again, eagerly awaiting the next flight of ducks. The partner’s dog never left his side all morning.

Over 45 years of duck hunting, this scenario has been witnessed numerous times. Duck hunters love retrievers. However, even in this age of information, many hunters still believe that hunting dogs either have it or they don’t. Retrievers have the innate ability and desire to retrieve game, but their desires may not align with the expectations of duck hunters. Dogs should retrieve on command, not at a later time when they feel safe.

A retriever can be a good companion yet still be gun shy, which greatly reduces its effectiveness as a hunting dog. The following steps can help prevent gun shyness in retrievers.

Step 1: Choosing Your Pup

Training with a new puppy begins immediately, preferably at 7 or 8 weeks of age. The puppy develops a sense of connection when chosen from the litter. Puppies are already socialized to a degree—first with their mother and littermates, and secondly with the owner of the mother. If the owner has not spent much time with the puppies, it is advisable not to buy from that owner. The quicker puppies are socialized to humans, the easier they will be to train. Choose only puppies that show signs of being socialized. If they run from you in fear, there may be underlying issues. Both mother and puppies should approach to play and investigate.

Step 2: Creating a Bond With Your Dog

Once a puppy is chosen, commit to a 72-hour regimen of staying close and not letting it out of sight. The first 72 hours in a new home will determine the relationship for the duration of time together. The puppy is stressed from being separated from its mother and littermates, and is now in new surroundings with unfamiliar people.

The quicker your puppy becomes socialized with humans, the easier it will be to train them.

Upon arriving home, make the puppy comfortable near you. Do not allow others to play with the puppy; at most, they should only pet it briefly. The goal is for the puppy to focus on you as its lifelong master. Establishing a trusting bond quickly is crucial. Never intentionally scare or unduly frighten the puppy.

Step 3: Teaching Basic Commands to Your Dog

After the initial 72-hour adjustment period, both the puppy and owner should be at ease. The puppy should readily play and recognize that it is being fed and watered. These moments are excellent for socialization. Training has already begun, but now it’s time for intentional training to develop the desired hunting partner.

The first commands to teach include its name, as well as sit, stay, and come. These instructions will be absorbed through repetition. Keep training sessions short at first and gradually lengthen them as the puppy learns. Numerous resources are available to assist in the process; these basic commands are foundational for further training.

Step 4: Introducing Noises to Your Puppy

Once the puppy has mastered initial commands, it is ready for further training. It is beneficial to introduce louder noises when teaching a puppy to retrieve. Let the dog play and get excited. Toss a ball or training dummy a short distance; the puppy will naturally chase it. Call its name and instruct it to come while clapping hands and moving backwards. Stop suddenly as the puppy approaches. The puppy will have completed a retrieve amidst the noise. Continue this process until hand claps can be replaced with a starter pistol or a .22.

Step 5: Water Training Your Retriever

After the puppy is confident with slightly noisy training, advance to water training with longer retrieves. Toss the training dummy high and long so the dog can watch and concentrate. As the dummy falls into the water, fire a small gauge shotgun, such as a .410 or 20 gauge. Observe for any fear or restlessness from the dog. If there are no issues, command the dog to fetch the dummy. When the dog returns, offer praise while approaching with the shotgun in hand. The dog will smell the burned powder and see the gun, understanding that it is part of the process.

Repeat this process consistently. It is enjoyable for both the trainer and the dog. Each session builds the dog’s steadiness and the trainer’s confidence in its abilities. The good news is that there are many years ahead to enjoy a dog that will not falter due to gun shyness.

The partner showed signs of embarrassment. His $2,000 Lab never retrieved a single teal that morning, while the $250 Peggy performed excellently. It is not the price of the dog that determines its effectiveness, but the time and training invested by the master.